A Cut Above

Thoughts of my father always loom heavily this time of year for me. May 4th would have been his 79th birthday. As I was driving down Fourth Street last week, I remembered the barber shop my father used to go to get his hair cut. You see, my dad had the most glorious head of hair! He had a hairline particular to his family and a head full of thick black curly hair. As he got older, the gray, and then the shock of white, were no less glorious. In my dad’s final days, his hair was gone due to chemo. But even without hair, he was the handsomest man in the world.

Thinking about his hair made me want to go to that little barber shop. I wanted to take pictures of of it. Walking into this tiny building on Fourth Street, I anticipated being greeted by Floyd the barber from the Andy Griffith show. It was like walking back in time. The owner, Joe, immediately shook his finger at me when I walked in and told me he wasn’t interested in buying anything. I told him that I wasn’t selling anything; I was writing a story about barber shops. I asked him if I could take some pictures and ask him some questions about his shop. He told me no! He said that he was semi-retired and he didn’t want any more publicity for his shop.

I politely said thank you and told him that my dad used to get his hair cut there. He asked who my dad was and I told him his name and that he had an office not far from the barber shop. He remembered my dad and said he was a very quiet man. He would come in and read until it was his turn and then never said much during his haircut. I had to smile because my dad was very quiet and shy. I then told Joe that my grandfather used to get his hair cut there too and he remembered him as well!

I left the shop feeling a little sad that I couldn’t take any pictures of this cool old man and his even cooler old school barber shop. I wanted to respect his wishes and didn’t even sneak a picture of the building!

I started getting curious about the other old barber shops around my neighborhood. I drove a few blocks south on Fourth Street and stopped at another place called Frank’s Barber Shop. I walked in and Frank was cutting a young man’s hair. I told Frank that I was doing a story about barber shops in the neighborhood and asked if I could take pictures of him in his shop. Without hesitation he said yes! I was so happy. I snapped two pictures and asked him a few questions. I was told that Frank had been in the same shop for 44 years. His 45th anniversary will be in September. Frank’s shop is totally cool! I bet it hasn’t changed much in 44 years! Frank has another barber in his shop, Vince, who has worked there 2 ½ years. He’s a young guy, which I think is pretty neat. He’s learning from a master.

While talking to Frank, I asked him about a barber shop in the Valley that had a basement that used to be a jazz club. A friend of mine had heard from someone that an old jazz club existed off of Rio Grande Blvd. and Indian School Road. Frank said that place, Ben’s Barber Shop, was where he started out. He remembered that the place used to be a restaurant originally, and that it did have a basement, but couldn't remember it being a jazz club. I said my thank you’s, took my pictures and off I went in search of the mysterious jazz club.

I found myself near the corner of Indian School Road and Rio Grande Blvd. at Ben’s Hair Design. I walked in expecting to be greeted by another sweet old barber. Much to my surprise I met young barbers! The shop itself is still classically old school with sports pictures and memorabilia everywhere – to hide that funky old wood paneling! The owner, James, was cutting Andy’s hair, a regular at the shop. These guys were friendly and willing to answer my questions.

Ben was the original barber who owned the shop for 50 years. The shop that exists now was a restaurant and the barbershop was actually next door. And yes, there is a basement, but no one ever heard of a jazz club being there.

James, one of the owners, grew up right there in the neighborhood of Los Duranes. He said that five generations of families have had their hair cut at the shop. This includes his great grandfather, grandfather, father, uncles, himself and now his kids get their hair cut at the shop. I especially liked that he knew so much about his neighborhood of Duranes, but also knew about my neighborhood of Los Griegos. He said that he knew that brujos lived in my neighborhood!! I guess barbers get to hear all the good stories about pretty much everything! I also like that he said he gets as many old timers as young clients in his shop. Just as he said that, an elderly gentleman walked in to get a cut.

James left me with some sound barber words of wisdom before I left…The difference between a good hair cut and a bad hair cut is about three days! I love it!

Now I had been to three wonderful places and I just couldn’t stop there. I had to check out one more place. I found myself in Barelas at Martin Pena’s Barber and Beauty Shop. I walked in and felt the energy of Martin himself. This place is so cool, I had to contain my excitement. The place is eye candy all decked out in red and white.

Martin is a real spitfire. He’s been in the same spot for 28 years. He says that he was the youngest licensed barber in town in 1956. He says he won’t retire because he loves his job. He told me that he used to be a drummer and the agent for a local band for twelve years – Martin Pena and the Del Reys. The band traveled all over the country, but also played at a place called the Music Box which was on 2nd and Central, across from the Sunshine. He was also a manager of the shoe department of Kmart on Atrisco for several years. His first job was selling ice on Central Avenue when he was 18 years old. Martin was born in Old Town off of 15th and Lomas and grew up in Duranes.

One of the things you will see in Martin’s shop is a glass case full of trophies. He is known as the Godfather of Lowriders here in Burque. He has a “troca”, a 1955 Chevy that he calls La Bamba. It has won over 60 awards It is so cool, he’s had to hire it out to movie companies, as well as for proms, weddings, etc. He’ll be in a car show on June 7th at the Convention Center and wants everyone to come and see him and say hi.

Thinking about my father was what started this entire excursion. I know there are barber shop gems all over the city. Hanging around these guys, if only for a short while, was a really wonderful slice of Burque. Thanks, dad, for taking me on this journey. Happy Birthday.

Frank's Barber Shop on Fourth Street just north of Griegos

James giving Andy a haircut at Ben's

Martin Pena's shop

Martin Pena's cool troca!

My dad